I have received my FFL and products and services are available on my new website at:
I have been using this Laser Activated Shot Reporter software for a couple of months now and it is great! It allows me to get a lot more trigger time at home using any laser training gun or laser insert.
The way it works is to put regular or reduced-size targets up on a wall and point a webcam at them. The LASR software will then record your shot times and scores. It will also play shooting sounds through the computer speakers.
I'm planning to take some photos and video of the system in operation and will put them here when done
In the mean time, here is a link to a video from LASR:
If you are interested, you can get a 10% discount on the LASR software by using the discount code:
I got tired of finding/using a wrench to adjust the powder measure so I made this
I just replaced my old grill with a new Char-Broil 480 40,000 BTU unit from Amazon and the new grill just wasn't getting hot enough as quickly as I wanted so I replaced the regulator with a Bayou Classic 0-30 PSI Adjustable Regulator also from Amazon.
I just removed the old regulator hose fitting and the new one just bolted on with no other modifications required.
Here is the result:
WARNING: Don't try this at home - this may void your warranty / destroy the grill / burn down something you care about / kill you.
I've gotten questions about how overall length affects pressure so I did a few Quickload simulations. Here are the simulations:
In my quest for the perfect 3D printer settings, I decided to try the lift option which lifts the extruder from the surface during non-extruding moves. I found that my stock Solidoodle 4 had significant backlash in the z-axis. I tried to print out an anti-backlash nut/spring assembly from Thingiverse but it was made for previous version and my Solidoodle 4 didn't have a long enough z-axis threaded rod to keep the nut on it when in the highest position.
After thinking about this for a while, I considered just printing a solid piece that holds a nut but thought that it needed some give to keep it from wearing the rod or becoming sloppy over time. I settled on using a rubber O-ring below the nut to provide springiness.
To reduce the possibility of breakage, I added a post to limit over-travel.
We started producing our WIOT boards and wanted to ship them programmed but without the programming header installed (since some people may want to keep the board low-profile). We tried holding the 2x6 header in place then ended up buying some pogo-pin adapters from Tindie but it isn't comfortable to hold while the board is being programmed.
Click for more details
I designed this board to be an easy-to-use way to get connect to WiFi from an Arduino-compatible board. This will allow anyone to write Arduino compatible sketches that can easily use 802.11b WiFi using the ESP-8266 (ESP-01) WiFi module.
Although I could have probably done this as a successful Kickstarter campaign, we did the development on our own and ran a first batch of 50 units. If these are popular, we will run a larger batch.